The Roman bathhouses of geothermal Chaves; the pink flamingos of the Sado Estuary; the cork-harvesters of Alentejo; the marble ‘White City’ of Estremoz — this special 35-page guide to Portugal, published alongside the November issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK), shines a light on the country’s alternative highlights. Beyond the pasteis de nata (custard tarts) of Lisbon and the fresh seafood of Porto, Portugal rewards travellers keen to go further and broaden their horizons. Here, we reveal the country’s hidden side: the lesser-visited towns offering street art and clifftop fortresses; the castaway coves so secret you’ll need a kayak to find them; the wineries where you can bed down in wine barrels. We craft Burel wool in the Serra da Estrela mountains and meet the innovators breathing new life into the sparsely populated interior. This is Portugal, but not as you know it.