From Buddhist temples to Hallyu, this guide shines a light on South Korean culture old and new. In Seoul, modern pastimes include K-pop dances, karaoke and visiting quirky cafes, while in coastal Busan locals take things at a more leisurely pace, surfing just off its wide arc of golden sand. You can hike Seoraksan National Park, or meet Jeju island’s real-life mermaids. We also visit the culinary hotspot of Jeonju, island-hop from Mokpo and explore shamanism, looking at the folk religion’s place in modern society. 

From the traditional to the contemporary, this guide focuses on the best ways to see South Korea.